The weather was becoming increasingly warm. Even Shen Shaoguang, who was sensitive to cold, had shed her winter clothes for a lightly padded jacket in a seasonally appropriate jade color paired with a white skirt, making her look like tender spring onions. While looking in the mirror, Shen Shaoguang pondered how delicious spring onions would be either dipped in bean paste wrapped in pancakes or cleaned, chopped, and stir-fried with eggs.
Standing under the eaves, she stretched out her hand to feel the misty rain as fine as the smallest embroidery needle and hung her umbrella back in the corner before walking gracefully to the shop in front.
The morning meal at Yu San’s consisted of scallion pancakes, and spinach soup, accompanied by several small pickled dishes and salted duck eggs.
Taking a bite of the crispy outside, tender-inside, oil-dripping scallion pancake and examining the scallions inside, Shen Shaoguang thought Princess Yu San’s handling of spring onions was quite excellent.
Princess Yu San’s pancake-making skills were superior to Shen Shaoguang’s mother from her previous life. That old lady had been rather crude in her cooking, making pancakes with two outer layers of skin and a middle layer of filling, earning mockery from Shen Shaoguang’s father who called them “single-filling pancakes.”
However, Shen Shaoguang’s maternal grandmother could make pancakes that would separate into seven or eight delicate layers when shaken. Those pancakes, with no oil on the surface and no scallions inside, were perfect for spreading sauce and wrapping eggs – what northerners called “big pancake-wrapped eggs.”
Ever since Shen Shaoguang’s mother had turned beef meatballs into a pot of meat soup, Shen Shaoguang had taken over the family’s cooking duties. Whenever she was home, her mother didn’t need to enter the kitchen. That was when Shen Shaoguang was sixteen, or perhaps seventeen.
Shen Shaoguang believed her culinary skills must have been inherited from her grandmother’s generation. Of course, it might also have been because poor children had to grow up early. It was remarkable how she had grown up healthy and energetic despite being fed by such cooking all those years – she must have been easy to raise.
Her mother wasn’t completely without skill – she made decent home-style braised fish and somewhat artistic ai wowo [mugwort cakes]. But these were merely fireflies of light in an otherwise dark culinary landscape.
While mentally teasing her mother, Shen Shaoguang’s face broke into a smile.
Yu San glanced at her, wondering how someone could be so happy just eating scallion pancakes and spinach soup – perhaps Assistant Magistrate Lin had sent another gift?
Yu San’s gaze lingered on Shen Shaoguang’s face. Ever since spring began and she grew closer to Assistant Magistrate Lin, the young lady had become as fresh and vibrant as rain-soaked vegetables. Thinking of the “pig” next door trying to uproot their little vegetable, Yu San’s face soured. “What’s there to be so happy about while eating?”
Shen Shaoguang looked up. Was the princess still grumpy from waking up – had a pea under the goose-down mattress disturbed her sleep? Knowing not to provoke someone who hadn’t slept well, Shen Shaoguang smiled apologetically, “Today’s pancakes and soup are excellent, naturally I’m happy eating such delicious food.”
As if to support Shen Shaoguang’s words, A-Yuan ladled another bowl of spinach soup.
There was nothing special about the soup. Its appeal came down to two words: tender vegetables. The freshest tender spinach, quick-fried in oil, add water, bring to boil, thicken slightly with starch, pour in beaten egg mixture, add salt, drizzle sesame oil, and serve. Such a simple recipe, yet so delicious.
Yu San, unwilling to argue with someone smiling, gave Shen Shaoguang another glance before lowering her head to drink her soup.
Shen Shaoguang smiled, thinking how the princess’s temperament was like having PMS thirty days a month.
After the morning meal – which had Princess Yu San worried and the other three delighted – the tavern entered its regular working hours. A-Chang cleaned, A-Yuan prepared vegetables, and Yu San pre-processed ingredients, while Shen Shaoguang calculated yesterday’s revenue and received vegetables and meat from vendors.
They mainly stocked pork, with some lamb, hens, pigeons, and various vegetables, though recently vegetable consumption had increased. The Qiu family’s tofu shop delivered tofu again, and the oil press delivered sesame oil. Though it seemed like they hadn’t done much, the morning passed busily.
To Shen Shaoguang’s delight, the fisherman who had previously supplied them started delivering fish again – carp, crucian carp, and grass carp of various sizes. The Shen establishment’s fish menu was posted once more. Today’s delivered carp, with their red tails and measuring over a foot long, were perfect for vinegar fish. Though the imperial court had banned eating carp due to name taboos, this was impossible to enforce – officials and commoners alike still ate it.
Today the vegetable vendor delivered very tender yellow chives. Shen Shaoguang asked Yu San to save her a bundle to make pork and yellow chive dumplings for everyone’s lunch.
Though yellow chives were essentially the same as regular chives, they were more tender with a milder flavor. The filling would be made with chopped yellow chives and pork belly. The dough would be made soft, pulled into medium-sized pieces, and rolled thin. They’d spread plenty of filling on top, cover with another layer of dough, press the edges firmly, and use a large plate to roll and cut off the excess edges. Oil the griddle, place the meat pie on it, and cook over low heat until done.
Such pork and yellow chive pies, with their golden-brown crust and savory filling, would make your mouth water at first bite!
A-Yuan was drooling at Shen Shaoguang’s description: “Young Miss, just you standing outside the tavern describing how dishes are made and what they taste like can draw many customers in.”
“Ah…” If only A-Yuan knew that in her previous life, this had been Shen Shaoguang’s actual job!
No food magazine could survive on subscription fees alone without substantial advertising revenue. Writing promotional food articles has been Shen Shaoguang’s expertise.
She remembered once when a restaurant introduced a new grape fish dish that wasn’t fragrant, rich, fresh, or tender – rather like unsweetened rubber – and quite expensive. Unable to praise it genuinely, Shen Shaoguang had described its texture as “playful.” Later, a reader commented, “I finally understand why you called it playful, and I can’t even fault your description. You unscrupulous writers!”
Shen Shaoguang felt that perhaps it was because she had told too many such hollow lies in her previous life that heaven had seen fit to make her reincarnate as a cook. Karma, it was all karma.
As she pondered life’s unpredictability and karma’s cycles, Shen Shaoguang looked up to see several people walking through the fine rain. Among them was Liu Feng, and the others looked familiar – they seemed to be acquaintances of Huan Seven, though neither he nor that surnamed Lu whom she had confronted were present.
Shen Shaoguang stepped out from behind the counter, smiling in greeting, “Welcome, noble gentlemen.” She specifically addressed Liu Feng, “Young Master Liu, are you off duty today?”
The scholars all nodded in return, and Liu Feng smiled, “Miss Shen.”
It had been quite some time since she’d seen Young Master Liu, who seemed thinner, though perhaps it was just because he’d shed his winter clothes.
Shen Shaoguang had A-Yuan serve some clear tea while she introduced the tavern’s spring specialty dishes. Though the hotpot had been good, it was now out of season. Like a fickle lover, Shen Shaoguang had already forgotten her old love, her heart and eyes full of crispy, tender new favorites.
Thinking of fickle lovers, Shen Shaoguang couldn’t help but ask, “How come Young Master Huan isn’t here today?” She showed no trace of awkwardness about meeting someone she had previously embarrassed.
Liu Feng told her, “Young Master Huan has gone traveling in the Shannan Western Circuit.”
Shen Shaoguang nodded, “Reading ten thousand books and traveling ten thousand miles. Scholars traveling broadens their learning.”
For someone to leave for travel right after the Ministry of Rites examination results were posted meant he had failed to make the list again. If he had been of good character, Shen Shaoguang would have sighed about “talent going unrecognized” – after all, the jinshi examination was truly difficult, and everyone could have bad luck with exams. But this one was probably like herself – what goes around comes around.
Shen Shaoguang didn’t consider herself a good person, yet these scholars had friend-zoned her. Because these few had also failed this time, they could only try again next year, or perhaps “travel” to various places to try their luck, work as advisors for a few years, and then return to take the exam with better chances. Today’s feast was a farewell gathering.
When these scholars heard Miss Shen’s “reading ten thousand books and traveling ten thousand miles” and “scholars traveling broadens their learning,” it hit right at their situation while saving face, and they all smiled, “Miss Shen has good insight.”
After delivering these casual pleasantries and taking their orders, Shen Shaoguang returned to the kitchen.
One scholar whispered with a smile, “Now I understand why Third Brother Liu sought to propose back then. This young lady is indeed from the Shen family of Luoyang, truly cultured and refined, quite different from ordinary ladies these days.”
Liu Feng hurriedly stopped him, “Please don’t speak of such things.”
Another scholar said, “You don’t know, but Third Brother recently got engaged to Recording Official Zhao’s younger sister.”
The previous scholar quickly apologized, “I was too forward, I didn’t know about this.”
Liu Feng hastily waved it off.
The scholars then asked about the formal wedding date, and learning it was set for autumn this year, they all shook their heads regretfully, saying they probably wouldn’t be able to attend Liu Third’s wedding feast.
Shen Shaoguang, coming out with the vinegar fish, overheard this and was surprised, but quickly smiled and offered congratulations.
Liu Feng stood up, clasped his hands in thanks, and perhaps due to the wine, his face was slightly flushed.
Outwardly composed, Shen Shaoguang was inwardly amused – what are you thanking me for? Thanking me for not marrying you? That’s a bit harsh.
Returning to the kitchen, Shen Shaoguang had Yu San add two dishes – “Wealth and Fortune” and “Hundred Years of Harmony” – as the tavern’s complimentary dishes to congratulate Liu Feng on his marriage.
Seeing the two behaving so properly and gracefully, like people from the Land of Gentlemen, the scholars lost their desire to tease and make a show of things, once again marveling that Miss Shen was indeed worthy of her noble family background.
As the tavern grew busier, reaching its peak flow of customers, Second Lady Pang arrived with her maid.
Shen Shaoguang started, quickly went to welcome her, “Second Lady, have you come from worshipping at the temple?”
Second Lady Pang nodded with a smile, then frowned at the packed hall, “I had thought I could sit quietly here to chat and eat.”
Shen Shaoguang smiled, thinking this sheltered lady was like those who ask why the poor don’t eat meat – should I tell you that if it were quiet at noon, we’d be eating air?
“Never mind then, I’ll come visit you another day. I’ll be staying at the temple for a while anyway,” Second Lady Pang, unable to bear the noise in the shop, turned to leave.
Shen Shaoguang stood in the fine rain at the door to see her off.
“I have something to ask you,” Second Lady Pang looked around and asked softly, “Has Assistant Magistrate Lin ever dined at your tavern?”
So she wanted to arrange a “chance encounter” – what an ambitious and proactive young lady.
“He has,” Shen Shaoguang nodded.
Second Lady Pang was delighted, her forehead ornament seeming to become more brilliant. After thinking for a moment, she asked Shen Shaoguang, “Does he come often? What does he like to eat?”
What does Assistant Magistrate Lin like to eat? Shen Shaoguang was a bit stumped – he didn’t seem to have any particular favorite dish, generally preferring lighter flavors.
Before Shen Shaoguang could answer, Second Lady Pang had already made up her mind, “Master Yuan Jue often says Young Miss’s cooking is excellent. Starting from tomorrow – no, from tonight – I’ll come to try your establishment’s fine dishes and vegetarian fare.”
Remembering A-Yuan’s comment about how she could attract customers by standing at the tavern door describing dishes, Shen Shaoguang gave an innocent smile – this customer truly wasn’t drawn in by me.
But since she was here, they must retain her. Shen Shaoguang smiled, “Young Lady, come early, and I’ll save you the quietest corner seat.”
“Very well, Miss Shen, see you this evening.”
Shen Shaoguang smiled as she watched her leave with her maids. Under her umbrella, Second Lady Pang in her light pink dress looked like a freshly bloomed pink apricot blossom.
That Assistant Magistrate Lin was merely good-looking – how beauty leads people astray! Shen Shaoguang shook her head and walked back inside.